The story of Thomas Hardy's love affair with Emma Gifford in St Juliot, near Boscastle, and the places you can still visit, from the church to Beeny Cliff.
Long before he was famous, the writer Thomas Hardy came to the parish of St Juliot, just inland from Boscastle, on a work trip that changed his life. Our farm is in the same parish, and the lanes, cliffs and valleys he walked are on our doorstep. This guide tells the story and suggests how to explore Hardy's Cornwall on a camping holiday.
How Hardy came to St Juliot
In March 1870 Hardy was a young architect, not yet a successful novelist. He was sent to St Juliot to look at the old church, which needed restoration. After a long journey to North Cornwall, he arrived at the rectory and was greeted by Emma Lavinia Gifford, the sister-in-law of the rector.
Over the following months, and on later visits, Hardy and Emma walked the cliffs, rode along the coast and explored the Valency valley together. They married in 1874.
A Pair of Blue Eyes
Hardy drew on his time in Cornwall for his early novel A Pair of Blue Eyes, published in the 1870s. Its heroine and setting borrow from Emma and from the landscape around Boscastle and St Juliot, including a famous scene on a high cliff. Readers who know the area spot many familiar places in its pages, though under different names.
The Poems of 1912–13
Hardy and Emma's marriage became unhappy in later years. When Emma died in 1912, Hardy was overwhelmed by grief and regret. He returned to St Juliot and Boscastle in 1913 and wrote a series of poems now known as the Poems of 1912–13. Many critics see them as some of the finest love poems in English.
Several poems are set in places you can visit: the cliffs, the valley and the church. Reading one or two on the spot is a moving experience.
Places to visit
St Juliot church
The church Hardy helped restore still stands among the fields above the Valency valley. Inside there are memorials connected with Hardy and Emma, including a memorial window. It is a quiet, working parish church, so please visit respectfully. You can walk there from Boscastle on our Valency Valley walk.
The Valency valley
The wooded valley between Boscastle and St Juliot appears in Hardy's poems and in a drawing he made of Emma by the river. It is lovely in spring and autumn.
Beeny Cliff
North of Boscastle, Beeny Cliff rises high above the Atlantic. Hardy wrote a well-known poem named after it, remembering riding there with Emma. You can reach the cliff on the coast path north of Boscastle, past the Pentargon waterfall, or from the Crackington Haven side.
Boscastle harbour
Hardy and Emma visited the harbour, and the village appears in his writing. See our Boscastle harbour guide for what to see there today.
A Hardy day out from the campsite
- Morning: drive to Boscastle (about two miles), park and walk up the Valency valley to St Juliot church.
- Lunch: return to the village for a pub lunch. See our places to eat in Boscastle.
- Afternoon: walk north on the coast path towards Pentargon and Beeny Cliff, or drive to Crackington Haven and walk south.
- Evening: read a poem or two back at your pitch as the sun sets over the sea.
Reading list for your trip
- A Pair of Blue Eyes (novel)
- Poems of 1912–13, including "Beeny Cliff" and "At Castle Boterel"
- A good biography of Hardy for the background to his Cornish years
"Castle Boterel" is Hardy's name for Boscastle, which makes "At Castle Boterel" an especially good poem to read on a visit.
Hardy and the wider area
Hardy's Cornwall reaches beyond Boscastle. The cliffs towards Crackington Haven and the coast around Tintagel also feature in the wider romance of this coast. If you enjoy literary and historical places, our post on Boscastle's history is a good next read.
Walking in Hardy's footsteps safely
The cliffs that Hardy and Emma loved are high and exposed. If you head out to Beeny Cliff or the coast path, keep well back from the edge, stay on the marked path and keep dogs on a lead near the drops. Wear proper walking shoes, because the coast path here has steep steps and loose stone in places. Check the weather forecast before you set out and carry a layer, as conditions on the cliffs can change quickly even in summer.
When to go
Hardy first arrived in March and returned in March 1913, and early spring is a wonderful time to follow him, with primroses in the hedges and few people about. We open on 1 April, so April and May are ideal for a Hardy-themed camping break. Autumn, with its low golden light over the valley, is just as atmospheric.
Frequently asked questions
Why is Thomas Hardy linked with Boscastle?
Hardy came to restore St Juliot church in 1870, met his first wife Emma Gifford there and later wrote about the area in his novel and poems.
Can I visit St Juliot church?
Yes. It is a working parish church and is usually open to visitors. Please be respectful of services.
What is "Castle Boterel"?
It is Hardy's name for Boscastle in his writing.
How far is St Juliot church from the campsite?
Lower Pennycrocker Farm is in St Juliot parish, a short drive from the church. Ask us for directions.
Stay near Boscastle
Lower Pennycrocker Farm is a quiet, family-run campsite at St Juliot, about two miles from Boscastle (PL35 0BY). We welcome tents, touring caravans, motorhomes and campervans from 1 April to 31 October. Adults are £10 a night, children aged 5 and over £5, electric hook-up £7 and dogs £2 each (maximum two). Showers are free and you park beside your pitch. Check availability and book direct, or see pitches and prices.
Planning a trip for two? Our page on camping for couples in Cornwall explains why our quiet farm near Boscastle suits a slower break.
